Potosi...a glimpse into the difficult life of a Bolivian miner

Potosi is a city famous not only because of its altitude of over 13,000 feet, but (more importantly) for its mining history. Because of these silver mines, Potosi was the largest and wealthiest city in Latin America













hundreds of years ago under Spanish rule. It is incredible to think of this fact while driving through today's impoverished city. Today, despite the fact that the mines are greatly depleted, thousands still work in medieval conditions that most of us would have trouble imagining. The mines have become a popular attraction for backpackers looking to find out a little bit about this way of life. We were given a tour by Willie, a former miner who was lucky enough to get out of the business after seeing his father and grandfather both die there. (It is said that due to the noxious chemicals these guys breathe in, ones life expectancy can be as short as 10 years after making that first fateful step into the mines) Willie gave us great insight into the beliefs of the miners and how difficult a life they lead. Though most of the miners share Christian beliefs outside of the mines, they all worship and give thanks to 'Tio' (the devil) while inside the mines for allowing them to work and earn a living in his lair. We also got to meet some of the miners and give them gifts of coca leaves, cigarettes, alcohol and dynamite that we had purchased in the miners market. We also bought some dynamite for ourselves to blow up outside the mine.
Another requisite stop in this town is the Casa de la Moneda museum which was a former mint of Spanish coins back during the town's heydey. Ironically, these days Bolivian coins are made in Spain.

Salar d´Uyuni - Salt Flats (Bolivia)

Wow again. Many people had said that visiting the Salt Flats around Uyuni was a must do when traveling in South America, but I had no idea what I was actually in store for. With a Canadian couple, a Swiss girl and a guy from London, we headed out from Tupiza in a beat up old Toyota Land Cruiser.

Much like my earlier visit to Antarctica, I was constantly in a state of amazement over the four days here in Southern Bolivia. The landscape, which was mostly over 12,000 feet in altitude, was ever changing and one site after another provided scenes more amazing then the last. Each day seemed to build on itself like a thrilling mystery or a piano concerto. From hair raising mountain roads, to intriguing ruins, to red and green and blue lakes, to steaming, bubbling geysers it was hard to believe that the climax or crescendo could actually live up to the previous few days. Alas, the final day´s sunrise on the eerily white salt flats did not disappoint. While driving across the salt flats (think hard rock made of pure white salt), you could not help feel like you were crossing a frozen lake up in Minnesota. It would not have surprised me in the least to see a snowmobile come flying past our jeep leaving a wake of snow. After the sunrise, we visited a cactus island and took the cliche salt flat photos that are a requisite for a visit here. Other highlights were staying in a salt hotel, wandering through ruins at sunrise and seeing rock formations that seemed to be straight out of a Dali painting. All in all, this four day journey will definitely go down as one of the coolest things I have ever done.

Salta & Cafayate (Argentina) across the border to Tupiza (Bolivia)

After a hectic journey from Iguazu, I was ready for a little relaxation and Salta provided the perfect place to take it easy for a while. Here I was able to catch up with Jody (a friend I had met in Pucon), see a couple great museums and get some laundry done. One day Jody and I ended up eating empanaditos at a local hole in the wall (or more accurately, hole in the sidewalk)


where we ended up talking (in poor Español) with the family that owned the restaurant for over 30 minutes. The children (ages 8 and 5) were curious to learn English and to know things like if we had a car at home. These are the travel experiences I will never forget.












One day, I took a tour down to Cafayate which is a really small town known almost as much for the amazing road that leads there as for its true claim to fame - vino. It was another incredible day with more photo opportunities than you could really stand. After arriving back from the tour at 10:30pm, we hurried to the bus terminal for a bus to the Argentinian border town of La Quiaca.

To say that it was an uncomfortable ride would be an understatement. At one point I opened my eyes to see the front and side windows of the upper level of this bus covered in ice. On the inside. This was a sure sign that we had left the warmer, lower altitude and were headed into Bolivia which, for the most part, is all at altitude. After putting on 4 more layers at the Argentinian border, we walked a kilometer to the Bolivian border town of Villazon where we officially entered Bolivia and quickly caught a bus to the town of Tupiza. Tupiza was a brilliant introduction to Bolivia. Things here, as in the rest of this country, are cheap. Five dollars for a place to stay (including breakfast), two or three bucks for dinner, etc. I took a horseback tour through the beautiful red mountains surrounding town and got to really run with a horse for the first time in my life. A bit scary at first, I soon could not get enough.

Iguazu Falls (Argentina and Brazil)

Brendan and I took an 18 hour overnight bus ride up to what everyone describes as a ¨must see¨ if you are in the Buenos Aires vicinity - Iguazu Falls. Bus rides can actually be quite comfortable down here depending on the class of service you choose. For about $8 more, we upgraded to Cama service which includes a bigger, more horizontal seat, dinner (with wine), a scotch on the rocks nightcap and breakfast.


We were actually quite rested upon arrival and after checking in I went over to the Brazilian side of the falls while Brendan, thwarted at the border for not having the $100 visa (none needed with my Irish passport), checked out town. After a full day exploring the amazing Argentinian side of these falls the next day, Brendan and I sadly parted ways. He's returning to BA for a couple days before heading back to Colorado and I've decided to forgo Paraguay and am headed west to northern Argentina. It was really great to be able to travel with such a great friend for a couple weeks.

(travel note - After leaving Iguazu, I was headed for Resistencia, Argentina but due to a farmer's strike (they happen all the time here) blocking the road, I had to stop short in Corrientes and book another night bus to Salta. Somehow in the confusion, I lost my shoes and now am traveling with only flip flops.)